Whispers Of Nature

As we are heading toward Christmas of this year it reminds me of the first anniversary of the tsunami disaster that hit South East Asia and the Indian Ocean region in 2004.

In October 2001 my wife Elvira and I spent a few days holiday on the island of Phuket. It is one of the most popular holiday destinations of Thailand.

We stayed at resort hotel Dusit Laguna that was located along the beach. It was a fabulous hotel designed in Thai style with a huge tropical garden and swimming pool. The hotel consists of few buildings with rooms which were approximately 30 m off the beach.

At night we could hear clearly the roaring sounds of the sea. Since October was the monsoon season there were big deal of tropical rain and the sea appeared to be quite rough and murky. The waves came up far deep onto the beach. They went so far that the waves actually washed away the whole beach itself.

We tried only one time to go up to the beach. But I noticed that the waves quite high and they almost swallowed the whole length of the beach itself that we had to run for our life. Somehow the sea looked hostile and threatening. In Holland I used to see the high waves of the impetuous North Sea. But somehow I thought the way the Andaman Sea behaved was not quite the same as with the North Sea. Since I know the North Sea used to be rough, especially in time of stormy weather, it is in that sense predictable.

One night when we were laying in bed in our hotel room I could clearly hear the sound of the waves breaking on the beach. Since our room was so close to the beach the sound seemed to be so insistent. It sounded like as if the sea was restless and angry. From my own intuition I sensed that there was something scary, something threatening about this sea. But I could not exactly spell what was wrong about it. It anyhow worried me as the sea was so close to our hotel and that the sea water might flush us away.

I remember that I wrote an email to my sister Onki in which I shared with her that there was something scary or something sinister about the Andaman Sea here. I might be a bit oversensitive as it was anyhow the monsoon season and it might be just a normal thing.

Then, on the Christmas Day of 2004 my gut feelings have not failed me. We all heard of the huge and devastating tsunami that hit the whole region. I searched the website of Dusit Laguna hotel and found a notice that it had been hit and damaged by the tsunami. It may be too easy to take this conclusion but I am very sure that my intuition is quite right on the Andaman Sea. It wears on a mask of a beautiful and friendly sea in time of good weathers but underneath there lies something scary and sinister within it.

It reminds me also of the earthquake in Kobe in 1995. A few days before the devastating quake it was noticed that birds became unusually quiet, and the water from the thermal sources turned blur. The lesson we take out of these events is that man needs to learn to listen to the whispers of nature. It is something that man in modern times has disregarded to do.

Yee Chuen Leung

Chief Editor

Stripped Naked

In last November a released video has caused a row between China and Malaysia. It showed a Chinese young woman - allegedly to be Chinese national - who was forced to strip naked by a female Malaysian police officer. The Chinese was summoned to do ear sit ups while she was being filmed in secret from behind.

The video is widely circulated in China and provoked a public outcry and fury for the abuse and humiliation of a Chinese citizen in Malaysia. It also created a loud protest from the large Chinese community in Malaysia itself for this abuse which seems to stem from racism.

The abuse of this Chinese woman by Malaysian police is not an isolated incident. In 2005 there are reports of at least four Chinese women who were treated in similar way by the police. Many Chinese tourists who visited Malaysia complained that they were treated with disrespect by immigration officers and abused by police officers.

The mistreatment and abuse seem to stem from prejudices against Chinese nationals who come to Malaysia as tourists. According to the authorities many Chinese citizens overstayed and committed a lot of offenses such selling goods or entering into illegal work. Chinese females seem to be working as prostitutes. Those things caused a bias by the Malaysian police towards Chinese tourists who come to Malaysia.

Initially, the Malaysian justice secretary defended this act of the Malay police and brushed off the complains of the Chinese. He stated that if the Chinese are so uncontent about their treatment in Malaysia than they may leave the country as they please.

The consequences are that the number of tourists from China dropped with 65% for this year. Also, China has shown her anger and concern about the reports of mistreatment of Chinese nationals in Malaysia. The Chinese government urges its citizens to refrain from visiting Malaysia.

The Malaysian government realised that they have done something stupid by alienating China. Especially, the economic damages to Malaysia can be considerable as Chinese tourists stay away. Also, the scam may further harm the trade with China which is becoming more and more the economic powerhouse in Asia.

Early December the Malaysian government sent a envoy headed by Home Affairs minister Azmi to China to apologize for the incident and also to give assurance that Chinese nationals in Malaysia will not be abused or mistreated. The Malay official gave guarantee that there will no special prejudices against Chinese females. Azmi's envoy made their visit to Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou and other major Chinese cities to apologize for the incident.

We will see if this kowtow by the Malays is sincere and that Malaysian government will truly take measurements to discipline the behavior of its civil servants in handling of Chinese visitors.

Yee Chuen Leung
Chief Editor

Hiking on Lama Island

Hiking is a popular sport among the people of Hong Kong. It is for them also an escape from the crowds of the bustling city. My wife and I went for hiking on Lama Island which was the fourth largest island of Hong Kong.

Our journey to Lama Island started from the ferry terminal in the district Central on Hong Kong island. It was on an early Saturday afternoon and there was already a crowd waiting for the ferry to come. Most of them were young people who were also in for a sporty hike on Lama.

Finally our ferry left Central and was bound for Lama Island. Our ship passed through the utmost west point of Hong Kong island and we saw how we came along the districts like Pok Fu Lam and Discovery Bay.

The boat trip took only half an hour. Our ferry called at the small port Yung Shue Wan which was no more than a little township with some restaurants, pubs and shabby hotels. Much to our surprise the hiking trail actually started from the main street of Yung Shue Wan where the trail led us to the interior of the island.

We were not alone. There were lots of folks on who were also here for hiking. The backpackers were chatting loudly while some were having food on their way. It was more like a family picknick rather than a wild nature hike. Also, along the path there were food stalls selling curry fishballs, roasted sausages and other snacks. It made us hard to enjoy our walk and the natural beauty around us.

Finally we managed to get rid of the crowd and continue our hike in a more or less normal way. Our trail came along a small beach where there were some people taking a sunbath while others risked a dive into the sea. Believe it or not. We even saw a foodstall on the beach which was selling tofu fa!

The toughest part of our trail was that part that got hilly. It was also a more quiet part of the trail where we had to climb uphill. On top of the hill we got a wonderful view on the South China Sea which looked really serene and peaceful.

Our hike ended at Sok Kwu Wan. It was a small port with a few seafood restaurants along the quay. It was already dusk when our ferry arrived. It took us to Aberdeen at Hong Kong island. All and all it was a good work out for both us. Since the trail was only about 6 km long it was quite doable for beginners like us. The Lama hike was one that could be best marked as a trail of snacks and seafood...

Yee Chuen Leung
Chief Editor

Ayuthaya

Shortly after our wedding Elvira my wife and I flew off to Bangkok to spend our honeymoon in the Thai capital city in the year 2002. We really had a wonderful time together. The warm climate combined with the vibrant life and rich culture of Thailand added even more charm and gloss to our honeymoon.

After having arrived at Bangkok airport we hired a young Thai tour guide who would take us on sightseeing for the coming couple of days. Our guide, a handsome and well-mannered youngman from Chinese kin, took us to the former royal palace somewhere in town on the second day. After that he led us to the royal workshop where jewels were made by skilled craftsmen. Those jewels were mostly made from gems found in Thailand itself.

The most impressing visit was however our daytrip to the ancient capital city of Ayuthaya. On the third day in Bangkok our guide took us upon our special request to the ruins what were left of this ancient Thai capital. It was almost a two hours ride by cab from the present capital city of Bangkok to Ayuthaya. The road led us through vast and endless rice paddies which had gone dry in late October. In fact, Ayuthaya was located in a neighbouring province of Bangkok itself.

I remember that it was on a hot and relatively dry sunshiny day when we headed off to Ayuthaya. When we finally arrived at Ayuthaya the place looked much like a huge green park with lots of old trees and ruins scattered all over the park.

Frankly, there was no much left of the once awesome and large ancient Thai capital. Ayuthaya became the capital of the powerful Thai empire which grew in power from the 14th and 15th century. The city was one of the wealthiest in Asia by that time. A British visitor once described Ayuthaya as the greatest of all cities in Asia and its Court was magnificent and beyond compare.

The tide however had turned against the Thai. The might of their rival, the Burmese, was rising. The Burmese invaded and occupied the most part of what was the Thai empire. In around 1767 the Burmese finally destroyed Ayuthaya after a siege of two years. The Burmese ransacked and burnt down this ancient Thai capital completely. They literally destroyed everything that was sacred to the Thai.

When we walked along the ruins of the temples and other buildings traces of that destruction were clearly visible. The completely burnt down ruins were still black of the horrific fire which destroyed the city. The many statues of Buddha found in Ayuthaya had their head cut off. It was a macabre sight. Even on a beautiful sunshiny day like this we shivered by the sight of the huge mass destruction which was so obviously savage and brutal. It was not hard for us to imagine how horrifying the scene it must be when this city fell.

Luckily, there were not only ugly things to be found there in Ayuthaya. Our guide took us to look at a brand new buddhist temple full of splendour just a stone-cast distance from the ruins. Our Thai guide informed us that this new temple was built with money offered by the Burmese. It was a friendly gesture by the Burmese people in order to reconcile with their Thai neighbour.

It really made us feel good to see how these modern Asian nations made efforts to come to terms with their past and to be willing to build on a more constructive future together.

Yee Chuen Leung
Chief Editor

Romans in China

Early this year my attention was drawn by a news which I have already forgotten for long. It was about the remarkable discovery by some historians that ancient Romans had settled in China during the Han dynasty. I had already once read this news in a Dutch newspaper about ten years ago. It was an exciting and intriguing idea to know that Romans already came as far as to China long before Marco Polo did.

Elvira and I were in Malaysia for vacation in February this year when we happened to watch a program from Discovery Channel in a hotel room in KL. It was talking about the same discovery that a group of Roman legionaries might have built a town in the province Gansu, in the western part of China. Near the present village of Zhelaizhai there were some ruins which might be the ancient town of Liqian. Some historians believed that this town was once built by Roman legionaries at around 50 B.C.

A British professor in history suggested that Roman soldiers had come as far as western part of China. His theory was based upon the historical battle between the Roman legions and the Parthians in Minor Asia in the year in 53 B.C. The Romans were defeated and approximately 10,000 Roman legionnaries were captivated. It remained since long a mystery where those captured Romans had gone.

It was until the British professor Homer Hasenphlug Dubs found in the annals from the Eastern Han Dynasty in which it accounted a battle between the Chinese and the troops of the Hun chieftain Jzh Jzh. As a pre-emptive strike the Han Chinese army attacked the bulwark of the Huns in Central Asia. The Han annals mentioned unusual military formations which the Chinese described them as "fishscale" formations. Professor Dubs immediately thought of the Roman testudo formation. Also, the annals account double palissades, a defense structure, commonly used by the Romans.

Professor Dubs believed that some Roman soldiers escaped from Parthia and they made their way to the Hun territory. The Romans legionaries hired themselves as mercenaries to the Huns. The Huns were under their chieftain Jzh Jzh a threat to the Han Chinese empire.

The Chinese defeated the Huns and Jzh Jzh was decapitated. The Han annals account that about 150 surrendered soldiers survived and were deported to China. It was not uncommon for the Chinese to use captivated soldiers as border guards. Professor Dubs believed that those captured men were the Roman legionaries. They were redeployed by the Chinese to guard the western border of their empire. The Romans settled down in a place which was known as Liqian.

Other clues which support the theory that Romans really had settled in China lies in the name of Liqian itself. Some scholars believed that Liqian was the Chinese translation of the name of the Roman city of Alexandria. The Han Chinese used to denote Roman empire by this name.

Another clue was to be found in the present inhabitants in the area of Liqian. In Zhelaizhai many people appear to have light coloured hair, brown eyes and high cheekbones common to caucasians.

Despite all these however nothing can be taken for sure yet. The "fishscale" formation might not be the Roman testudo, neither was it certain that the captives were former Roman soldiers. Professor Dubs knew that there was a fresco from the Han period which depicted this victory of the Chinese on Jzh Jzh. When he could study those panels than he might find more information about the captured soldiers. Those panels however seemed to be lost.

There were plans to carry out extensive DNA research among the villagers of Zhelaizhai but so far there were no results known yet. Also, Zhelaizhai lies on the route of the ancient Silk Road. Over time many merchants from remote countries as far as from Rome might have come to Liqian. It could not be ruled out they had left their traces in the DNA of the local people.

As yet, the idea that Romans had settled in China remains a romantic but far fetched theory from a British professor.

Yee Chuen Leung
Chief Editor

Layang Layang

It was early in the morning when we left our hotel in Kota Kinabalu town and set off to the airport. In stead of the usual Terminal One as I expected we were however directed to Terminal Two. We had to walk on the tarmac in order to board the aircraft. Much to my shock it was an old small propeller engined Russian made aircraft.

The crew, the captain and co-pilot, were two Russians who spoke poor English. Before we took off our captain looked into the cabin with a friendly smile and informed us that the flight would take approximately one hour.

Our destination was Layang Layang. I had never heard of that name before until I went together with my wife to Sabah in East Malaysia. Layang Layang was a tiny remote islet built on a ocean reef in the South China Sea. It was about 200 km west off the coast of Sabah. Layang Layang appeared to be a attractive diving spot for scuba divers. It was told that after Malaysia reclaimed land in the reef which became Layang Layang its sovereignty was already disputed by Indonesia. That explained why there was a small navy base on such a small island.

Our aircraft did not fly on a high altitude. We could see clearly the sea waves beneath us. The weather was fine on that morning and the sea calm. So our flight went pretty smoothly. I imagined that this shabby aircraft would not stand much chance to survive when it had to fly over the North Sea in Europe where we came from. It would just blown be away by the strong and unpredictable wind there.

On board there were about a number of ten passengers. Apart from my wife Elvira all the other passengers were male persons. The majority were I assumed Malaysians and the rest a few Westerners. It was about 10 am when our aircraft arrived at Layang Layang. It was a scary sight when I saw how our aircraft was approaching the small landing strip in the midst of the ocean. It was such a small landing strip that there was just no room for any mistake. Thanks God, our Russian captain did his job well and our aircraft touched down perfectly on air strip itself which ran from the sea shore into the islet itself.

Next to the landing strip we saw about three compounds which looked like a sort of camp. One of those wooden buildings served as the main facility hall with reception, restaurant and recreation room etc. The hotel resort did not look as luxurious as those one used to find accross Asia. The accommodation had a bit Spartan look. Our bedroom was big but simple. There were only a few channels available on tv most of them were Malaysian channels. The water from the shower was from freshened seawater. Even the hot drinks such as tea and coffee served were cooked with this kind of water of which taste was still a bit salty.

The first day we set out to explore the island. In fact, it was so small that one could only walk on the landing strip. At the end of the air strip there was a small navy base with just one or two vessels. Since it was a military area access was restricted for the holidaymakers. The most astounishing thing was that the tiny island was reclaimed inside a pacific reef where the water was shallow and its colour was azur blue. When looking further one could see the vast ocean which was contrasted by the dark blue sea water and the huge waves. Layang Layang was like an oasis of peace in the midst of an impetuous vast ocean.

There were lots of sealife to be found in the shallow water of the reef. Between the rocks one find little crabs and small tropical fishes. The water in the reef was like a big scale aquarium. Moreover, together with the light azur blue coloured water gave us a sight which was priceless. The boundary of the reef was surrounded by a ridge which looked like a huge ring of irregular shaped rocks. Beyond the reef there was the deep ocean.

We were told that there about 70 diving spots in and beyond the reef of Layang Layang. Every day four expedition are scheduled for diving. The first dive started at 8 am just after the early light breakfast. The boat set off and return about 10 am just in time for the second breakfast to be served. After lunch there was the third round and in the afternoon the last one of the day. Most of the scuba divers came from far to Layang Layang. Most of them appeared to be British, American and Australian. To me it became clear that Layang Layang was a diving paradise for the experienced divers.

When it came about diving I was not really the right person for it. Since one needed a padi for scuba diving. And I had never done any diving myself. My wife Elvira however was a sporty and seasoned scuba diver. She joined the others and set off a few times to the open sea for a dive. Elvira really had a wonderful time here. She also took some underwater pictures which were indeed fantastic.

So being on this pacific reef I realised that I did not address to the question of what I was supposed to do for the coming three days here? Fortunately, there were still other leisure things to do in this resort. In the main hall there was a recreation room where one could read some books and newspapers. Also, there was a big screen tv showing many sports program and movies. There was a pool table and also there was a small outdoor pool in the garden. Another option was to swim inside the reef itself which was like vast outdoor pool. Since the water was shallow inside the reef there was no way that you could get yourself drown here.

The best memories however we kept about Layang Layang was not the diving or the beauty of the reef. It was the excellent food which they served there! At the first evening when we had dinner in the restaurant it appeared to us that all the dishes served really tasted very well. We had not been trying such a good food thus far since we were in Malaysia. And we had already stayed in a few five stars hotels in Sabah.

In the second evening we noticed that our chief was a tall Indian guy with a big moustache. When the guests were enjoying their meal in the restaurant the chief also joined the party and enjoyed a long drink and had a good chat with some staff and guests there. Although he was an Indian man his cooking encompassed a vast range of cuisines. The dishes were a fusion cuisine with Western style breakfast, barbecue but also Chinese food with typical dishes like rice congees, friend noodles but also Indian curry mutton and so on.

Ever since our culinary experience in Layang Layang we had not come accross a restaurant or hotel where the food could match the outstanding quality of those prepared by this Indian chief! So we saluted for him. Layang Layang was in all aspects a very unique experience for us and it was definitely still an unknown pearl in the South China Sea.

Yohanes Leung

Chief Editor

Christmas in August

It was about four years ago I already had the desire to write a review on this Korean movie. This movie was originally released in 1998 and... Man! Time is really fleeing! Anyway, as I am convinced that good movies are timeless. So is Christmas in August.

The story is a simple one. Jung Won who was photo shop owner in his thirties knew that he was going to die soon. He choosed to stay in his little photo shop. Every day customers came in and Jung Won patiently served them and tried to find joy in every little thing of life.

One day Darim, a young pretty lady, walked into his photo shop. Darim and Jung Won fell in love with each other. But the word "I love you" never came out of the mouth of Jung Won as he knew he was going to die. One day Jung Won situation deteriorated quickly and was rushed to the hospital. Darim, unaware of Jung Won illness, came to his photo shop just to see him. She was surprised to find the shop closed. Jung Won was laying ill in the hospital for many days. Nonetheless, he did not express that he missed Darim and wished to see her. Darim saw that his photo shop was closed for such a long time and her heart was broken as she did not know his whereabouts.

It was a painful sight to see Darim suffering such a heartache. It looks like Jung Won was playing a brutal game with her. But what he was doing was finally going away, leaving his family, his friends and the woman he loved but could not tell.

The atmosphere in this movie was calm and natural. Its strength lies in its simplicity and purity. Christmas in August has put Korean movies in the limelight and set the trend for a new generation of original artistic movies in Korea.

Yee Chuen Leung
Chief Editor

An update on BG Lee

Last year August we published a in Dutch written article titled "Enter Lee Hsien Long". It talked about Singapore's new prime minister Lee Hsien Long who became the city state's leader in August 2004.

The most special thing about Lee Hsien Long who is also nicknamed as "BG Lee" that he is the oldest son of the legendary statesman of Singapore: Lee Kuan Yew. Most Singaporeans critised that BG Lee could have become their country's leader due to the influence of his father the old Lee rather than due to Lee Hsien Long's personal capabilities.

Anyway, to keep the story short it must be said that Lee Hsien Long himself has paid a high price for achieving this goal. Lee Hsien Long has waited more than a decade before he was moved forward as the new prime minister. It was in 1990 that his father Lee Kuan Yew stepped down after having served as the leader of Singapore. In order to circumcise critics the old Lee moved someone else forward to becoming his successor rather than his own son Lee Hsien Long. For the reason alone you may think that BG Lee has deserved this job as a reward for his patience...

Today however we are not to discuss the past. In stead, we are examining and assessing the achievements of Lee Hsien Long after one year taking office as prime minister. In the first half year I did not notice much of Lee Hsien Long's activity. Nonetheless, there was a slight changes noticeable on LHL.

The first remarkable statement LHL has done in the past half a year was on the row between China and Japan. In Spring 2005 there were fierce eruptions of anti-Japanese sentiments in China. Chinese demontrators attacked Japanese consulate and businesses in mainland China. It was caused by allegations from China and South Korea that a new version of Japanese history textbook whitewashed the atrocities by the Japanese during WW II. Unlike the past however the Japanese government took on a tough stance and was in its respond unrepentant. This Japanese attitude further inflamed the anger among Chinese people and the violent demonstrations in China went on. In stead of apologies the Japanese government of Koizumi demanded for apology and compensation from China for the damages caused to the Japanese assets in the mainland.

Lee Hsien Long appeared to have the gut to take on a high profile by making a call to both countries to back down. Lee called on for resuming constructive talks between China and Japan. The most interesting things that Lee stated was that Japan had to accept the changed of balance of power. Japan need to accept that it was China which emerges as the superpower in the region and that Japan has got to adapt likewise to this new political reality. It was a bold statement but also a tactical one for a small nation like Singapore.

Another remarkable activity of Lee Hsien Long as Singapore's leader was his dealings with Indonesia. Indonesia being the most powerful neighbour requires Singapore's special care and attention. Indonesia which foreign policy oftenly seems to be cited by domestic problems can behave by times friendly, grumpy or even hostile towards its prosperous but tiny neighbour. It seems that Lee Hsien Long is spending lots of time and attention in building good relationships with the leaders of Indonesia. It is a delicate act of balance that constantly demands Singapore's attention. We are looking forward to see how well Lee Hsien Long is playing this game.

So far the update on Lee Hsien Long. More is to follow soon. We welcome any comments from you.

Yee Chuen Leung
Chief Editor

Terror in Chinatown

Since end 2000 the Chinatown in the port city Rotterdam in the Netherlands saw a wave of street crimes, which seemed to have a racial character. It sent a shockwave through the local Chinese community leaving it terrified and paralysed.

Rotterdam has one of the largest Chinese community in the Netherlands. Chinatown is located in the downtown where there are many Chinese restaurants, shops and other small business. It is a lively area where Chinese business is thriving.

This area is however not purely a Chinese residential area but shared with other ethnic groups such as the blacks, Maroccans and Turkish living. Since decades those ethnic groups have been living peacefully side-by-side without much notable incidents.

Since end 2000 there was a sudden outburst of violent robberies against the Chinese. The culprits were reported as street gangs from black races that seemed to single out Chinese to target on. The Chinese, either young, elderly or adults were robbed from their money and valuables under gun- or knifepoint. Some victims were, for instance, beaten up or stabbed. Rumours told that a Chinese young lady of 22 was raped, as she did not bring money with her.

The community of Chinatown as whole was terrified and paralysed by a sudden rise of these violent street crimes, which seemed to be eyeing on the ethnic Chinese only. Although the police stepped up security in the area, the robberies went on and it seemed to happen almost on a daily basis.

As a result most Chinese stayed away from the streets of Chinatown, especially after dark. The restaurants and shops consequently suffered a dramatic drop of revenues. For the Chinese people themselves it meant a deterioration of their living conditions as they felt being harassed and were forced out of their favoured shopping and dining out area.

On Monday 5 February 2001 leaders from the local Chinese community managed to unite the Chinese people in a historically unique march to the City Hall to make a loud protest against this racial violence. They demanded the local authorities to do more in order to improve the security in Chinatown.

The response from Mayor Ivo Opstelten only infuriated the Chinese. Mr Opstelten told that more additional measurements had already been taken. The police investigation team in charge had been reinforced from four to eight officers. Further, the mayor stressed that the Chinese themselves should bear some responsibility for their own security by bringing less money on the street, and by always reporting a robbery to the police.

Meanwhile, the initial fear and shock among the Chinese have turned into anger and indignation. There were calls for revenge and retaliation on the blacks. The Chinese have come to realise that their passive attitude has contributed to the situation where criminals keep on to see them as an easy prey.

Yee Chuen Leung
Chief Editor